Squash come in the classic fall colors: umber, blazing yellow, and sunset orange. Pumpkins are favorites for decor and eating, but other types of winter squash offer the same burst of color and a more diverse range of shapes and flavors. The baking squash Red Warty Thing (also known as Victor) and Eastern Rise both have smooth, dense, deliciously sweet flesh with a subtle nutty flavor. These orange, teardrop-shaped fruits keep long into the winter and pair well with pumpkins, Hubbard squash, and round kabocha squash in decorative seasonal arrangements. Three French heirlooms known for their superior culinary qualities also make excellent fall decorations: The rare, single-serving-size fruits of Pomme d'Or are about the size and color of oranges and lemons. Galeux d'Eysines is a large, round fruit with pale salmon-colored skin and a smattering of tan bumps; its sweet potato-flavored flesh purees well, making it the perfect choice for soups. And the lovely Musquee de Provence offers a fairytale pumpkin shape and a delicate flavor.
Blue + Green Beauties
Moody dark green and gray blue winter squash provide the perfect foil for their fiery-colored cousins. Two unusual Australian heirlooms, Triamble and Queensland Blue, feature sweet, deeply flavored, bright orange flesh; they will store up to 5 months. The shamrock-shaped Triamble has a pale green rind that is as smooth as marble; Queensland Blue makes the perfect doorstop, with 10- to 20-pound, deeply ribbed fruit with jade blue skin. For baking, try Blue Hubbard, a large squash with a hard, powdery blue shell complementing its bright orange flesh that is an excellent substitute for pumpkin in pies and soups. Marina di Chioggia, a turban-shaped heirloom from northeastern Italy, has richly flavored, mustard-colored flesh concealed within a knobby, ribbed, blue-green shell.
The muted tans, creams, and browns of many butternut, buttercup, and dumpling squash have an understated beauty. For stuffing, roasting, and baking, Sweet Dumpling is unbeatable. The petite ivory fruits are mottled green and have succulent, tender flesh. Thelma Sanders is an acorn-type heirloom with pronounced ridges and a cream-colored skin that ripens to a burnished gold. It makes a perfect meal for two, as does Honeynut, a generously fruiting, miniature butternut squash that sets up to 18 fruits per plant. The lovely Pattison Panache Verte et Blanc, a green and ivory scalloped fruit, and Zucchino Rampicante, a slender Italian squash with smooth tawny skin and a bulbous bottom, can both be harvested young as summer squash or left to mature on the vine and enjoyed in winter as baking squash.