ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOHN BOURGYNE
Place a gutted and scaled fish on a stable surface. You’ll want a heavy chef’s knife and a very sharp filleting knife with a thin, flexible 6- to 8-inch blade that allows you to feel the bones as you cut.
Position the blade of the chef’s knife behind the gills and side fin. Push down on the knife’s spine.
Rock the knife until it cuts through the bones to the other side. Reserve the head for making fish stock.
Run a fillet knife down the top of the fish from neck to tail, inserting the knife tip 1/2 inch deep into the flesh.
Pull back the top flap of flesh. Make another, deeper cut, splitting the fish all the way to the end of the backbone.
With the knife flat against the bones, slice from neck to tail, cutting through the rib bones to release the fillet.
Flip the fish over and repeat steps 4, 5, and 6 on the other side, this time working from tail to neck.
Remove ribs attached to the fillets, slicing just underneath the bones and pulling them away with your other hand.