Where have the 17 years gone? It seems like only yesterday that periodical cicadas were swarming the East Coast by the millions, crunching underfoot and serenading us with their buzzy, escalating call. (Note to self: need cicada ringtone.) They’ll be back in a few weeks, as restless and randy as any 17-year-old who’s overslept. Read about the impending flashmob here. But don’t go dismissing cicadas as simply a nuisance. Think of them as dinner. Yes, cooks are turning these protein-packed insects into pizza toppings, taco fillings, and even the “olives” in martinis. Betcha can’t eat just one.