Jams are an easy way to process currants because sugar can be added to mellow out the acidity of this pectin-rich fruit. But too much sugar dulls the brightness of the fruit. For me, baking them whole right into a dense cheesecake provides the perfect balance. Each bite will release a morsel of tartness surrounded by a wave of unctuous creaminess that is the perfect yin and yang of sour and sweet that I love about dessert.
Gooseberries are similar to currants—in fact, they are also in the genus Ribes. Varieties have either green, pink, red, or white fruits and, like currants, are typically used in jams or jellies. Often more tart than currants, gooseberries can be cooked with a lot of sugar but will still retain their tartness. Dessert may be the first thing to come to mind when cooking gooseberries, but they also pair brilliantly with rich gamey meats. Cooking them down into a glaze or chutney is equally appropriate on a scone or on pork.
The cape gooseberry, Physalis peruviana, shares the name of gooseberry but is an entirely different fruit. Native to South America, it has become popular in Australia and India. It flaunts a smooth, glossy orange-yellow skin and a pulpy flesh filled with edible seeds, all encased in a papery husk. The mild sweet and tart flavor make them addictive as a snack right out of the husk, but they are easily versatile in salads, stir-fries and desserts like the classic gooseberry fool.
The next time you see these curious summer fruits at your local farmers’ market, be sure to grab a container and start experimenting. You’ll realize that they are as tantalizing to cook with as they are to ogle.
Try Chef Lee's Berry Recipes:
This article originally appeared in Organic Gardneing June/July 2013.